Cycling in Flåm, Norway – A bitter sweet experience (Part 1)

Oslo Central Station

(Phone alarm ringing)

It’s 4:30 a.m. Reluctantly, I get up from my bed and start packing. I think I am going to break my own personal record soon, having to wake up so early for three consecutive days. If I am travelling with my friends, they would probably curse me for planning the travel in such a way. Haha. But, you know what? This is the beauty of solo travel, I do things my way. =)

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After everything is done, I check out from the hotel and head towards Oslo Central Station. I have already pre-purchased all my NSB train tickets so I just need to get there on time.

Please kindly note that all NSB train tickets are mostly around half the standard price if you buy at least 1 month in advance depending on availability of the tickets. The train ticket from Oslo to Flåm costs me NOK 589 (RM 282) and the usual standard price is around NOK 1034. So, do purchase them in advance as this is the best way to save travelling money in Norway.

Surprisingly, I have finally became familiar with the roads in Oslo and end up arriving at the train station smoothly, without getting lost. Yes! Haha. Therefore, I now have plenty of time to spare before my 6:25 a.m. train to Flåm arrives. It is not a direct train so I will have to change at Myrdal later.

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Look! I am so early that the notice has not even shown up on the monitor at the platform yet until 10 minutes later. While waiting for the train, I have the Wienerpekan that I bought yesterday for breakfast. Yumss… It is crispy and sweet, just what I need to boost my energy.

NSB Train – Komfort seat

(Woosh…… train approaching)

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I make my way to the Komfort seat coach which I have paid an extra NOK 90 for to enjoy the followings:

  • Standard two-pin power outlets
  • Access to newspapers
  • Complimentary coffee and tea (unlimited)

My NSB train journey from Oslo to Myrdal is going to take 5 and a half hours so an extra NOK 90 is worth it. Why? Allow me to explain. For example, if you buy a hot beverage from any shop, it will cost around NOK 40 so if you drink more than 2 cups of hot beverages, the NOK 90 is well spent. *thumbs up*

The seats here are also very spacious and comfortable which you can recline. Oh, guess what else? It even has free wifi on board!

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After the train departs, I get myself a cup of hot chocolate then I sit back and relax. Listening to the music on my phone and looking out the window during train rides have always somehow make me feel like a character in a music video. Lol, just saying.

Soon, a ticket inspector is making his rounds to inspect our tickets. When it’s my turn, I simply show him the PDF ticket that I saved on my mobile. Paperless ticket is great, not only it saves time, but also saves the trees. =)

Halfway through the ride, an announcement was made BUT in Norwegian so I didn’t really bother because I know we are not reaching Myrdal yet based on the schedule. However, when the train stops, many people get off the train without taking their belongings so I panic a little. “Why is everyone getting off? Should I follow or not?” I ponder. “Ah, whatever. Let’s just get off to see what the fuss is all about.”

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“Wow, this is a nice view.”, I thought while getting off the train.  Hmm… this may be a photo stop as everybody seems to be busy taking photos and one of them is even doing a vlog. Yay, an unexpected bonus stop! Everybody loves a surprise like this right? Hehe.

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5 minutes later, everybody gets back on the train and we continue our journey.

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On the way to Myrdal, I notice that a lot of the ice/snow on top of the mountains have not fully melted yet even though it is summer. Moreover, the further north you go, the colder it gets.

Flamsbana-The Flam Railway

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We arrive at Myrdal around 12 noon. There is only one platform here so you just need to cross to the other side to take the train to Flåm.

Flamsbana is known for its spectacular train journey that offers a panoramic view of some of the wildest and most magnificent nature in the Norwegian fjord landscape. In fact, it has been named one of the most beautiful train journeys in the WORLD and is one of the leading tourist attractions in Norway.

It is also one of the steepest train lines in the world on normal tracks, where almost 80% of the journey has a gradient of 5.5%. The train runs alongside the Rallar Road, vertiginous mountainsides, foaming waterfalls and through 20 tunnels, offering many viewpoints.

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The train arrives shortly. Gosh, it is packed with tourists. I hate it when it is free seating as I am not particularly good at “fighting” for seats. Previously, I have read that window seats on the left side have better views. However, by the time I finished stowing my luggage at the compartment, I can only find an aisle seat. Oh well, never mind.

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Half an hour later, we stop at this impressive waterfall called Kjosfossen. The moment I step out of the train, I am splashed by the waterfall’s spray. The volume of the waterfall is HUGE! I quickly cover my hair with my jacket hood to prevent it from getting wet.

Wait… I can hear music playing over the loud waterfall sounds. I look up the waterfall and there is a lady wearing a red dress dancing in the middle of the waterfall. (Try and see if you can spot her in the photo above. Hehe.) It’s amazing how she can bear through the powerful waterfall spray and dance so elegantly. A round of applause for her please. =)

As much as I would love to stay here and watch, I can’t as I am about to get soaking wet thanks to my NON-WATER RESISTANT jacket. LOL. Hence, I make a move back into the train.

After the performance ended, the train did not move for a while and we hear an announcement made that there is a problem with the engine or something like that so we will be stuck here for a while. We are also more than welcome to go out and enjoy the waterfall again. Sigh, such tough luck right? *shrug*

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Approximately 45 minutes later, the train finally starts to move. Thank goodness!! I was beginning to worry that we might not be able to go to Flåm after all. Well, it’s better late than never!

We gladly continue our journey and enjoy the sceneries outside the windows. There are indeed a lot of view points throughout the ride, a lot of tinier waterfalls along the way. What I realise is that there are views on both sides so I constantly have to turn my head left and right to capture the views. However, my view is obstructed since it is an aisle seat. Frankly, due to the crowd in the train, I can’t really enjoy my ride so it does not quite meet my expectations.

Flåm Youth Hostel

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Having to arrive at Flåm around 2:10 p.m., 1 hour later than expected, I need to rush to check in to my hostel now then collect the bicycle that I have rented to use from 3 p.m. until 5 p.m.

I am excited about staying at the hostel today as I will get to mingle with other people and make new friends. I have booked a single bed at a 4 person dormitory in their newest building where all the rooms are ensuite bathroom. On the other hand, the other two buildings only have shared shower and toilet facilities. Therefore, ensuite bathroom is definitely much more convenient than shared shower and toilet facilities.

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It seems like I am the first one to arrive. The room is really nice and clean. I am glad that I chose to stay here.

I look at my watch. Yikes, it’s already 2:30 p.m. There’s no time to lose, I shall admire the hostel later. Sadly, I will have to skip my lunch too. I hastily dump my things in the room and grab my backpack with me.

Bike Rental

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I collect my bike that I booked via visitflam.com website beside the yellow station building (i.e. the Flamsbana musuem).  The staff chooses the lowest bike they have for me yet my feet still can’t fully touch the ground. Sigh, it is not going to be easy riding this.

By the way, this is my first time riding a mountain bike. I tried riding one when I was young and I didn’t like it. However, I don’t have a choice this time as they do not have normal bicycles.

The staff kindly teaches me how to use the bike as it has both coaster brake and hand brake. With the coaster brake, I need to turn the pedals backward. I try it out… woah… totally not used to it. “Am I really going to be fine cycling this?”, I think in doubts. Then, I shake off the thoughts and nod, “Of course, it will be fine! Let’s take on the challenge!”

I plan to visit Otternes Farm as it dates as far back as 17th century and is surrounded by a luxuriant landscape with fantastic views over Aurlandsfjord which intrigue me.

I ask the staff, “How do I get to the Otternes Farm?”

He points to the two cyclists ahead the road past the junction, “You see them? You just go ahead like them but keep left.” He continues, “The road to Otternes Farm is not all flat, just the last part is a bit difficult. You should be fine.”

“All right, thank you.” I smile, not foreseeing the difficulties that are about to come.

Then, I cycle straight ahead and keep to the left.

15 minutes later

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“Huff…huff…huff…” I am panting like crazy, feeling really tired. I don’t think I am physically fit enough to do this yet. Along the way, I almost fell down few times but managed to break my fall and scratched my legs slightly instead. The bike seat is also extremely uncomfortable so it makes things worse.

I look around and my instincts tell me something is not right. I stop by a house where there are people chatting outside and ask the lady, “Hi, excuse me, is this the way to Otternes Farm?” She answers in surprise, “No, it is the other way. You need to pass by the train station and go straight.”

WHATTT??? I think I want to faint. So, earlier when the staff asked me to go ahead but keep left instead, he meant to take a left turn at the junction? Gosh, I am so stupid but to be fair, his instructions were not clear enough.

Anyway, I thank the lady and quickly cycle back. When I reach the junction, I make the correct turn this time. Honestly, I am really exhausted by now as the roads are not flat, in fact, a lot of uphills and downhills. I am contemplating whether to return the bike and go on foot instead. However, the thoughts of not finishing what I started and wasting my money deter me from giving up.

OK, it’s all about my mental strength now. I start chanting to myself as I pedal ahead, “Shirlene, you can do it…you can do it… you can do it…”

After 45 minutes of cycling, my legs finally give way. I no longer have the strength to cycle up the hills so I get off the bike and push it forward instead until I reach a flat surface which then I continue cycling again.

1 hour later…

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Finally, I see the signage to Otternes Farm and it says 500m more. YES! My heart is about to explode with joy.

Then, I turn and stare at the road. My jaw drops. SOMEBODY PLEASE TELL ME THAT THIS IS JUST A DREAM… NOOOO……  it’s all the way uphill to the farm village. It’s so near, yet so far……

I…… will give it a try. I push my bike upward. *huff… huff…* Soon, my arms give out too, I don’t have the strength to push anymore. The bike is really heavy.

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Determined not to give up yet, I decide to leave my bike aside the road and continue to walk wobbly upward instead.

However, even after using all my strength walking upward, I barely passed 100 m and I am on the verge of passing out.

I need to face reality now and think rationally. If I continue, I might pass out in the middle of nowhere and nobody might discover me. If I don’t pass out and manage to reach there safely, I still would have used up all my remaining energy by then…Then what? Call a taxi? Ask the owner of the farm for help?

What if the farm is closed? I have barely eaten anything too. If the farm is closed or the restaurant at the farm is not opened, how do I replenish my energy to go back to the town centre? ……

WHAT SHOULD I DO?

(TO BE CONTINUED)

Note: I will summarise the reviews, tips and costs reference at the end of my trip in Flåm.

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